HAPPY BIRTHDAY, AMERICA!

You survived another year, and I made a new dress to celebrate!

One of the things I look for when shopping online are fabrics that will work well together, and I had no doubts about these off-white and navy Celtic inspired stretch cotton poplins. from Mood Fabrics.

Cotton poplin with the addition of spandex is a dream come true for casual Summer sewing!  Crisp, lightweight and minimal wrinkling –  what more can I want?

Using my own pattern I sewed the bodice with the navy background poplin saving the reverse fabric for the collar, placket and lower band.

I generally make lower bands similar to a double folded bias tape equally encasing the lower edge on the front and back, but I was short on fabric and was forced to be creative. After cutting a four inch band and folding under 1/2 inch, I stitched the right side of the facing to the wrong side of the dress and flipped it to the right side of the dress.

The technique resulted in a nice finish to the inside of the dress. I finished the band by topstitching the band’s upper edge.

The busy design was perfect for the 16″ back darts I used to get the fitted back I was seeking, (not available in RTW!  The fitted back is strictly a benefit of sewing ).

The darts completely disappeared into the print.

Due to the poplin’s crisp nature, the collar is standing at attention with only a lightweight tricot interfacing (also applied to the placket).

But best  of all, thanks to the added spandex, the dress did not need a zipper!

Not only should cotton poplins be preshrunk but I noticed the fabric retracts very slightly after cutting. I recommend cutting along the outer edge of the cutting line or marking your seam lines  in case of a small retraction.

Both of the cotton poplins are still available, however Mood also offers a large selection of stretch poplins, including Liberty of London designs. Check them out HERE!

And with that, I believe it’s time to celebrate! So here’s to great fabrics, especially Mood Fabrics, here’s to fun Summer sewing and most importantly, here’s to our great nation, the United States of America!

Best wishes for a happy and safe holiday

It is said the two best days in the life of a boat owner are the day you buy the boat and the day you sell the boat.  I’d like to extend the joke to writing a book…… thrilled to sign the contract, but good gosh, were we ever happy to put the manuscript in the hands of the publisher!

Honestly, how do some people manage to live these beautifully balanced lives?
Writing and planning another wedding tipped the scales to all work and no play. But now, I am back at play…

Recently I’ve been on multiple shopping trips with Mimi, my bride-to-be, who is in search of wedding festivity attire. Neoprene is everywhere……. and the dresses I saw were either column-like and designed for a 5’10″ model, or featured a fitted bodice with a very flared skirt ………. and they were expensive.

I ordered Mood Fabric’s Peacock Kaleidoscopic Digitally Printed Stretch Neoprene with Vogue 9047 in mind; a pattern I made in the sleeveless version last Spring.

While the pattern is simple, the fabric required careful placement.

e v e r y w h e r e……

I really love the flattering and slightly raised waistline of the dress,

and hoped placing the darker portion of the design at the top of skirt pattern piece would create an illusion of a longer, leaner me

This is my third neoprene project, and I’ve learned to keep a silk organza press cloth close by as this fabric does not like direct heat. Otherwise neoprene is very easy to sew.

After watching my co-author, Julie whip together a garment in record breaking time using the flat sleeve placement, I followed suit easily manipulating the ease of the sleeve in place. Within a few minutes both sleeves were attached, problem-free.

This method affected the remaining construction order which was unproblematic since the pattern is such an easy one. Rather than sew the side seams of the bodice together followed by the side seams of the skirt together and attaching the two in a circular seam at the waist, I attached the skirt to the bodice front as a flat piece, repeated at the back. Beginning with the bottom edge of the sleeve, I pinned the front and back together finishing at the lower edge of the skirt. The dress sewn together as two flat pieces with  two very long seams worked beautifully on this fabric and pattern combination. The seam allowances were finished with the serger prior to hemming the sleeves and dress.

I attached a lightweight piece of fusible knit interfacing to the lower edge of the hem  before folding and topstitching (enlarge to see better)…..

ant then folded under 1″, stitched at 3/4″ and trimmed 1/4″ next to the stitching line for a neat finish. The interfacing stabilizes the fabric, and the Fiskers gold-plated scissors are designed to lie flat while cutting enabling an easy and close trim.

Speaking of hems, I placed the hemline a little longer hitting the knee to keep me warm during our cool Fall weather
Seriously, the pattern illustration features an almost knee-length hem which is nicely proportioned to the raised waistline,

and a great safety net for spontaneous celebratory moments.

 HAPPY SEWING EVERYONE!

The completion of Garment #1 was delayed due to the recent death of my mother-in-law, Elizabeth Neuburger. “Lib” lived to the age of 92 and remained young at heart until the end. Though boating was her passion later in life, she sewed beautifully and especially loved to needlepoint. Our family has a treasure of beautiful Christmas stockings and lovely smocked dresses that cannot be bought anywhere. This post is dedicated to Lib.

Greetings

Well, here it is, the first of 40. In approximately 345 days, I’ll be celebrating the new 40 with 40 new garments made by moi.  I’m beginning the challenge with Butterick 6103.

 I’ve made only one lined jacket during my four years and four months of blogging which was under the guidance of Susan Khalje. While I adore the jacket, it took 100 hours to complete and I’ve never had the urge to make another jacket until now.

I knew the pattern’s princess seams would allow for easy alterations to easily achieve a flattering fit, and couldn’t possibly take 100 hours to sew.

Not only did I need a jacket to pull a few basics together……. I needed some color to combat the winter drabs!

Mood Fabric’s Green on Black Polka Dotted Polyester Jacquard caught my eye online but nearly blinded me when I opened the package!  (more colors here)

I began with View C  featuring the long draped back, but switched to a more fitted silhouette 3 seconds afters seeing this photo of the muslin. Donald Duck, perhaps?

Much better!

 I truly enjoyed the construction process of this garment. Because I know so little about tailoring and jacket construction, I kept the instructions close at hand along with the 1980 edition of The New Vogue Sewing Book. Rather than attach the jacket and lining (minus the arms) in one fell swoop, I broke it into manageable sections. The Vogue sewing book recommends starting at the center of the collar, attaching 1/2 at a time to prevent slipping and shifting.

Attach lining and collar starting in the center of the collar

Once the collar and lining were stitched together, I continued and stitched the neckline and front facings to the lining. Before sewing the lower edge and lining together, I turned the garment to check for symmetry in the notched collar as well as checking the jacket length  before continuing.

Stitch lower edges after checking the collar symmetry and jacket length.

The sleeve lining was attached to the lower edge of the sleeve, then slipstitched to the shoulder. I love this method as it reduces stress points in the lining.

Lining attached at lower edge of sleeve.

…then slipstitched to shoulder

To turn the jacket into a festive winter garment, I trimmed the jacquard using a black velvet on the upper collar and front facing….

…and added black sleeve cuffs.

I’m also digging the pockets of this pattern

So, #1 is complete, and though it may not be as finely tailored as Hubby’s, it’s added a new dimension to my wardrobe in both style and color.

Happy December to all!

Until soon.

Maybe I should say Garment 2 (a) because I plan to make more.

When my next birthday rolls around, I hope to be equipped with a collection of jeans. Let’s face it, there is no such thing as a simple pair of jeans anymore. Boot cut, skinnies, flared, mid rise, low rise, dark denim, light denim…… not to mention colorful jeans.

For years I held on to my old jeans with the intention of refashioning my collection. Recently, I came to my senses and donated all of my very heavy non-stretch denim jeans …. and then I ordered this fabulous Italian Mottled  Beige Stretch Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics.

Reading over 3 dozen positive reviews on the Pattern Review website led me to try Jalie’s Eleonore jeans.  It’s true… they are pull-on….  and bulk free around the abs I like ‘em.

I was delighted to find the color more camel than the online pinky-brown photo which means my new pull-ons are compatible with many colors including my cozy gray sweater.

Mood describes the twill as a medium weight making it perfect for pants. The pattern is adaptable for skinny jeans but I went with the boot cut the first time around.

The elastic stitched on the inside of the waistband results in a very smooth appearance, (the next pair will feature construction photos).  My only criticism is the bagginess behind the knees, but otherwise find the fit flattering.

I topstitched the upper portion on the pants including the yokes, back pockets, mock fly and front pockets, and played it safe using a compatible thread.  I did not make a muslin since stretch fabrics perform differently, however the next pair will be tweaked.

So here’s to Garment #2 (a).
I hope to make a pair of  “real” jeans later on, but tis the season to be simple!

Fa-la-la-la-la-la-la-la-la

‘Twas five days before Christmas

and all through the yard

the creatures were glowing

and waving at cars.

Greetings, Dear Readers! I’m not sure when I’ve had so much fun sewing.

With the tacky Christmas sweater craze long gone, I knew it was time for a new festive sweater set. For garment #3 I ordered this Italian Cream Wavy Blended Wool Knit from Mood Fabrics. It is a very stable knit and slightly heavier than what I was expecting, but when it arrived I knew it would be compatible with the furry trim in my stash.

My cardigan pattern is McCall’s 6844, View B , an easy and beautifully drafted pattern with petite adjustments.

The bodice pieces are gently shaped for a flattering fit which I find a key to success when sewing an oversized garment from heavy fabric.

The sleeves were attached to the shoulders using the flat seam method as opposed to set in sleeve as per the instructions.

I also attached the front facing wrong sides together rather than right sides together so that the trim would flip to the outside of the garment. The seam was finished with the serger, flipped and tacked in place.

Due to the weight of the fabric, my narrow hem was folded only once and trimmed very closely to the stitching line for a clean finish.

The cardigan works well on its own especially paired with other winter whites,

and I truly love the fit.

I deliberated about the necessity of making the shell but ultimately selected Butterick 3383 from my pattern stash. A simple pattern, I pinned the side edges until I had a desirable fit, and finished it in a jiffy…

and now, I have a sweater set just perfect for a trip to the North Pole

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all!

A special thank you to my friends for providing their festive yard as a backdrop for the photos

If only I had waited a year before making this dress I could have had this new Vogue pattern right at my fingertips – LOL

Maybe you remember when I made this dress last January 2015.

Inspired by an Akris Punto dress on the Neiman Marcus website for $995, (photo above) I altered a pattern to achieve a similar look.

The new collection of Vogue Patterns now offers the Akris Punto knockoff in full minus the pockets. I really love the set-in sleeves along with the rounded hemline, and plan to give it a try in a different color combo for another all-occasion dress! Would you believe I wore mine to dinner just last night (with boots and tights, not slides!)?

 ________________________________________________________________________

Dear Readers,

Thank you so much for your kind comments following my last post. I found them extremely comforting and heartwarming upon experiencing such sadness.

In appreciation, I’m hosting an Arctic Blast Giveaway featuring this 1.5 yard piece of Faux Fur from Mood Fabrics.

I intended to sew a shrug for Mimi with the solid white faux fur to wear as an exit piece with her wedding dress. Due to the unforeseen circumstances I experienced, I didn’t make it and I rented a fur. Yes, I rented a fur.

To be entered into the furry-giveaway, simply leave a comment. The random winner will be announced on Sunday, Valentine’s Day!

Good luck and lots of love

“What are you making?” asked the dignified Mood Fabrics sales associate.
“Pajamas.” I replied.
“Shame on you,”  he responded with a wink.

The soft shirting fabric with subtle stripes seemed a perfect choice for a pair of men’s style pajamas, but what did I know.

I meditated on the comment for nearly two years before cutting the fabric and combining two patterns from my stash: Butterick’s 5526 shirt pattern, view C , and Simplicity 7092 for the pajama pants.

My friend who offers professional embroidery services made a beautiful  4 1/2″ monogram for the pocket.

Nearing the end of the shirt construction, I modeled for my husband.

“You’re going to sleep in that?” he asked in disbelief. “That is really nice shirt fabric.”

Perhaps I was wrong… Maybe this needs to be worn as a boyfriend shirt.

I know, most pajama tops don’t have buttoned cuffs, but an oversized shirt pattern with no yokes or bust darts seemed perfect for pajamas, and the soft cotton is suitable for sleeping.

If it is to remain as a boyfriend shirt, I’ll be adding back darts for gentle shaping, but guess what?

I could not leave the remaining fabric behind and fulfilled my original vision by making the pajama pants.

I really like my cozy new PJs, but now I’ve a choice to make. Tell me Readers, what would you do?

Wear the top as a shirt,

or wear as pajamas?

PS…… If you haven’t already done so, be sure and check out Mood Fabrics shirting selection offering nearly 600 online choices! You’ll find everything from Italians cottons to designer fabrics with everything in between

Greetings

There is viscose and there is viscose. I am wearing viscose, more specifically Poppy Abstract Stretch Viscose from Mood Fabrics.

Upon reading the website’s  fabric description as “wonderful for wrap dresses reminiscent of DVF,” I placed a quick order and found the description quite accurate.

What is Viscose, you asked? For the scientific definition click here. Viscose, often labeled rayon is a regenerated cellulose fiber resulting somewhere in between a natural and synthetic fabric. I made my dress from a Viscose Jersey, knitted with 4% elastine.

Viscose quality can vary, but this viscose is cream of the crop

My pattern is Vogue 8379, a wrap dress pattern I’ve sewn twice before. I briefly considered sewing a new pattern, but reached for the TNT since I like this pattern for so many reasons.

 1. Notice the pleated bodice in the sketch below.  The pleats provide a beautiful fit in the bust without pulling or gaping.

No pins or fashion tape are needed to keep this garment in place!

2. The separate skirt and bodice pieces assure a great fit!

and lastly,

3. The combination of the 81″  (207 cm) skirt sweep and weight of the viscose were a good match.

When handled with care, viscose jersey is not difficult to sew.

Two years ago I bought the Craftsy class Sewing With Knits . In spite of not finishing the class or even making one of the five featured patterns, I learned a great deal from the instructor Meg McElwee of Sew Liberated. The class focuses on sewing knits without a serger. Meg gives a detailed lesson about the importance of machine needles to use when sewing with knits.

For this dress I used a Stretch needle.

She also demonstrates how to finish a seam (neckline I believe) by trimming it close to the stitching line, I applied this advice to the hem of my dress.

I stabilized the hem, by applying a 1 1/2″ strip of Mood Fabric’s Marshmallow Polyester Weft Knit fusible interfacing along the lower edge.

Next the hem was folded  along the upper edge of the interfacing.

After stitching a 1″ hem, I trimmed extremely close to the stitching line before finishing with an additional row of stitching.

The result is a beautiful flat hem with absolutely no buckling or ripples,

and a dress ready to greet our long awaited Spring.

 Until soon!

The photographer for Mimi’s wedding said she preferred cloudy skies and overcast days for shooting photographs and she got her wish on this cold winter day

In preparing for the last Mood Sewing Network post, Hubby and I thought the gray skies and harsh glares would work in our favor too.
Not so~~

We waited for the sun to come out and tried again.

Greetings

One of these days we’ll learn how to use the light to our advantage, but for now there is no subtlety in the photographs – either overcast glare or bright morning light.

My fabric, a blue/green/white floral cotton stretch sateen is only one of many from Mood Fabrics’ delightful collection of cotton stretch sateens!

With Spring in full bloom, I was craving a bouquet of my own and selected Butterick 6048, View C for its  whimsical cutout shoulders.

What I thought would be an easy sew became quite eventful, but the lightweight sateen with a beautiful drape  held its own against multiple bastings, a busy seam ripper and the Frixon pen.

The dress pattern is designed as a pullover (with a center back seam), but after making the initial muslin I added a zipper to avoid excessive wrinkling from pulling it over my head.

I removed 2 inches from the upper width of the sleeve to remedy the gaping without restricting arm and upper body movement. I’m wondering if the sleeves should be cut on the bias?

The pattern described as a fitted dress was quite baggy even after sizing down from the muslin. Since my fabric print was busy, I knew darts would disappear into the design. I added four vertical darts in the bodice; two 11″ in the front  and two 18″ in the back!

Much better

In the end I achieved the look I envisioned, and as a new stretch sateen fan, I pledge to always have some on hand! 

I believe Mood’s Cotton Stretch Sateens are perfect for a variety of garments, and Mood’s website’s description says it best….

The announcement of the Spring fashion season is upon us which is what this bold, but lady-like, modern floral is stating. As the weather becomes cool and breezy, this drapable, crisp, stretch cotton sateen will surely be comfortable to wear as a bubble hem dress with a strapless princess seamed bodice. The blue and green colors complement each other in this watercolor tossed hydrangea flowery print. With a romantic, vintage nod to this cool colorway on an opaque white ground, this print will offer a mod, bold look to any fashion dress be it for a day, evening or a bridal event.

Who can resist a fabric that is bold but ladylike – perfect for anytime and any occasion?

So here’s to Spring especially Spring blossoms ~ in every genre

Until soon!

If pink is the new black then I’m in luck

Seriously, I can wear my new Jalie Eleonore Pull-On Jeans everyday of the week with a different top!

When I returned to sewing 4 1/2 years ago, I was interested in sewing anything but pants, especially jeans…. until recently discovering lightweight stretch denims by the yard.

For years I held on to my jeans from years gone by waiting for the perfect recycling project, my waist to shrink two inches or for sentimental reasons. I kept them under our bed, until I was forced to clean and realized how heavy, bulky, and dated they were. Getting rid of those jeans energized me and at last, I am sewing the new and improved denim.

This is my second pair of Jailie’s Eleonore Jeans (first pair blogged here). I played it safe with my first pair sewn with stretch twill and in a slightly relaxed fit with a boot cut leg, but this time I took advantage of the stretch and sewed a tighter fit.

The beauty of this pattern is the foldover elastic waist making the jeans perfect to wear with tops worn on the outside and bulk free. The pattern also features real back pockets, a mock fly and mock front pockets.

Applying Steam-a-Seam down the center of the elastic was a great substitute for pins when sewing the elastic to the waistband.

Above: Elastic stitched to waistband
Below: Steam-a-Seam application to elastic before attaching to waistband

My hot pink stretch denim from EmmaOneSock is ready to brighten any occasion! It is light enough to wear in hot weather but maintains a durability to withstand the stress from the tight fit. I sewed this pair at a shorter length in order to slide into summer sandals without adjusting a cuff. My top was sewn in 2011 (blogged here and here).

I guess you could say I liked sewing these jeans so much I didn’t want to stop, so I made another pair.

This pair features a slightly longer leg to wear with wedges, and sewn in Mood Fabrics’ Jay Blue Stretch Blended Denim - a lovely fabric in another great Spring color! I’m wearing the jeans with a top I made exactly one year ago (blogged here).

Sewing the jeans back to back was a great lesson in understanding no two denims are alike! Much like knits, I recommend trying on the garment at each critical juncture even if you’ve sewn a perfect fit from the pattern before!

My first pair of Eleonores were plagued with excessive wrinkling behind the knees. To reduce the wrinkles I shortened the length just above the knee by 1 1/2 ” ( don’t forget to add back to the length in needed). Then, thanks to the suggestion of a reader, I made the back leg 1/2″ shorter than the front on the inseam between the knee and crotch, and gently stretched the slight difference into place. It worked (!), and pairs 2 and 3 have only the natural wrinkling that occurs with leg movement.

So garments 10 and 11 are complete and nicely mix into my wardrobe of separates. I’m eager to sew another pair of jeans over the summer, perhaps the real thing with all of the bells and whistles. If you sew jeans, I hope you’ll share your favorite patterns with me!

Until soon

Happiness may be a new puppy, but a new baby on the way is pure elation!

Greetings from beautiful Scottsdale, AZ! We’re here celebrating Mother’s Day with our little mother-to-be and her husband. Katie thinks she is having a girl, but I think she’s having a boy!

She and Will are one of the few couples I know who are not finding out the gender of their child. How am I supposed to sew anything for Little Baby without knowing if it’s a boy or a girl

For our special Mother’s Day celebration I made a new dress with a pattern I’ve owned for years, but have never sewn – New Look 6057

The pattern originally reminded me of Lilly Pulitzer dresses with a bonus – the cleverly designed pockets!

Sewn into the princess seams they can be as conspicuous or as invisible as you desire.

My desire was to make the pockets as inconspicuous as possible to create a longer silhouette.

For the fabric I selected a tangerine and white geometric stretch from Mood Fabrics. My original intention was to make a dress with no contrast pieces, but the geometric design was too tricky to handle for the collar which actually connects the front and back bodices. Fortunately I found a piece of  matching linen in the stash to pull it all together.

Another flattering pattern feature is the concealed side zipper which zips down from the arm. Double-click on the photo below for an up close view..

Since I have sewn so many princess seam dresses I skipped the muslin. The pattern itself combined with the stretchy fabric made for a large dress which required enormous seams. All seams were finished with the serger and the dress is not lined due to the heavier weight of the fabric.  I’m pleased with the result although it could use a little tweaking here and there.

Wishing you a very Happy Mother’s Day for those who are celebrating and a beautiful Sunday afternoon to all!

Until soon

Greetings from Edisto Island! Hubby and I are on the grounds of the island’s historic Presbyterian Church now in its fourth century of worship, and which we found to be a perfect setting for photos.

I was on a mission to make brightly colored summer clothes when New Look 6429 leaped off of the catalogue page. It is one of those patterns I’ve been looking for since I returned to sewing nearly 5 years ago. Cut in shoulders, cut out neckline, simple and chic, I was smitten.

I also had a  beautiful piece of black stretch viscose crepe from Mood Fabrics waiting to be sewn. Often sewing is about creativity, but not this time ~ recreating View D was my goal.

  
While the pattern doesn’t require a stretch fabric, I knew this crepe with its very slight stretch would make a lovely Little Black Dress (in addition to jackets, skirts and trousers).

The dress is shaped by French darts which disappear into the texture of the fabric.

To help the dress maintain its shape, I lined it with Mood Fabrics’ Antracite Black Acetate lining although the pattern does not require a lining. The neckline and tabs are faced with self fabric which left only the bodice to line. Here’s what it looked like before I assembled the neckband to the tabs and back shoulders.

Oddly enough the back seam and zipper are sewn last.

I understand why the instructions are ordered this way, but it is impossible to try the dress on before attaching the neckband. This means if you have any fitting issues a muslin is a must! The pattern is well drafted and my only change was removing 2 inches of length from the bodice.  The back is shaped by darts giving the dress an overall flattering fit.

I can imagine this pattern again in every view as well as a variety of fabrics. Perhaps in this Geometric Riviera Pique which is in my stash, or tweed for the Fall, or View D in solid white.

As Nina Garcia says, “Often the perfect little black dress finds the girl when she is not looking.”

How true! While clothes finding sewers is a less direct route, my new LBD was well worth the gentle interruption to summer sewing and happy colors

Until soon!

“The dress must follow the body of a woman, not the body following the shape of the dress.” —Hubert de Givenchy

Since I returned to sewing nearly five years ago, I’ve been looking for the perfect simple dress pattern and have quite a collection. Shifts, Sheaths, A-lines, Empire Waist, you name it…… I’ll buy the same pattern with a slight variation and then search for another. ~~~

So last week I took stock of my growing look-a-like pattern collection, I assessed my dying RTW dress collection and concluded all but a few were constructed from uncomplicated and basic foundations.

I knew I already had ‘the perfect dress pattern’ ~ actually lots of them, and I knew the way to move forward was to start at the very beginning. For me, this meant making a shift and shaping with darts, before making another dress.

If I was going to make a shift, then it was going to be a silk shift ~~~ and soon I was underlining, basting and thinking of Susan Khalje who told me she could keep someone busy for a week sewing a pencil skirt.

By golly, my shift would be a couture shift ~~~~ and then I came to my senses; it need not be all or nothing Breaking away from the couture standards, I inserted an invisible zipper following the Brother Invisible Zipperr tutorial. (which is a foolproof tutorial)

The dress pattern is McCalls 2401 (described as a sheath),and sewn in a  s m o o t h  dupioni from B&J Fabrics, not papery at all.

I made one design change and lowered the back neckline to match the front neckline.  To achieve the fitted back, I extended the darts all the way through the upper edge on the back pieces (click on photo above for detail).

The silk is underlined with a mystery fabric I received as a bonus from Farmhouse Fabrics which has a nice weight and texture for underlining.

I lowered the bust darts by 1/2 inch and extended the front darts downward by three inches for better shaping.

The dress is lined with a Grenadine Crepe de Chine from Mood Fabrics.

I tried talking myself out of using this beautiful fabric for a lining, but the crepe de chine transformed the shift into the dress I was seeking for the sizzling summer.

Obviously, it’s all about making the pattern perfect for you, bringing the search for perfect dress patterns to an end ……………

 which means all new dress patterns are icing on the cake!

Until soon

As promised…….

My July fabric order from Mood Fabrics arrived last week. (Thank you, Mood!). Receiving my fabric orders are not just exciting, but always a little intriguing.

Online fabric ordering is somewhat like a box of chocolates, but unless you are fortunate enough to live close to an inspiring fabric store, that’s the way it is.

I’ve been sewing with online fabric orders for nearly five years. It gets easier, but it never gets easy.

I am so very grateful to Mood Fabrics for affording me the opportunity to explore online fabric shopping as part of its Sewing Network. Each month the Mood Sewing Network Bloggers receive a gift certificate for fabric and most of us place an online order. Thanks to the store’s generosity, I have sewn many fabrics I might not have sewn otherwise. I don’t always pre-order a sample, so the fabric is not always what I expect.

Here’s a look at this month’s order that I placed from the stores images: (images linked to Mood Fabrics)

1.Pink/Navy Zebra Printed Polyester Chiffon with an 11″ repeat

2. 1.5mm Turquoise Solid Stretch Neoprene

3. Grenadine Silk Crepe de Chine ( the same fabric as the lining in this dress )

and three swatches.

Here goes

Holy Jungle Print!

Maybe you’ll understand how this fabric reminded me of a Lilly Pulitzer print based on the website photograph. Ummm………. I’ll figure out something. Can you bear another tunic? A maxi?

No surprises with the silk, since I’ve already sewn with it,

but the beautiful Neoprene with which I had planned to make a fit and flare dress is much thicker than I expected even though I have ordered two pieces of Neoprene from Mood. Obviously the 1.5mm description meant little to me. Back to the drawing board on this one too.

I’m sharing this order with you, because I have received many emails and many comments to explain my online ordering process. Following are a few of your questions, and a lot of my advice, but only because you asked.

Do I choose the fabric or the pattern first? 

I have done both. Sometimes I like the thrill of being surprised by the fabric. That decision is only safe when there is no preselected pattern.

How do I successfully sew garments from online fabric orders?

When I committed myself to sewing again, I knew online ordering was the only way to buy fashion fabric. I live in what was the Textile Capital of the US, but no more. Two chain stores which supply mediocre fashion fabric now exist in my town.

• Order a sample. As you can tell from my order, a sample is an absolute must to know what you are buying. I always order a sample for expensive fabric, and maybe should do this more often. One reader stated that by the time her sample comes, the fabric is usually sold out. I liken this statement to thinking about a RTW garment only to find it sold when you go back to buy it. It’s happened to me too, and some things just aren’t meant to be.
• I am willing to take a chance on fabrics. It doesn’t always work out as expected, but it’s not the end of the world. One must be flexible when the fabric is not what was expected. When you can remain flexible, the fabric will not go to waste, and you might discover a new fashion style. For instance, yesterday I saw a newswoman wearing a turquoise neoprene dress different from my usual style and providing a new idea for my fabric.
• Familiarize yourself with as many fabrics as possible, and know which ones are consistent. I can almost always predict how a silk twill will look and feel, or a wool gabardine, or cotton broadcloth. Mood Fabrics’ Guide to Fabric and Fashion is an excellent resource.

• Carefully read the descriptions provided by the vendor. Mood Fabrics and EmmaOneSock always provide excellent descriptions and often garment suggestions. BandJ Fabrics do not provide descriptions.
• Get a Pantone chart. EmmaOneSock lists the Pantone numbers for every fabric.
• I’ve yet to learn how to gauge a fabric by its weight, but it is a must. Can someone direct me?
• Reading sewing blogs is very helpful. Most sewists critique their fabric and provide inspiration.
• The Pattern Review website pattern reviews always list the fabric content sewn giving you an wide array  of fabrics used by home sewers.

Don’t I want to touch and feel the fabrics before buying?
Indeed. This sensory experience has caused many impulse buys, but as we know, one can never have too much fabric.

For me, I find that online shopping is a more deliberate process than in-store shopping.  If I am traveling, I generally overindulge believing it is my only chance to shop at that particular store.

A few years ago I had the pleasure of meeting Kathy Marrone, the Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Patterns Magazine. She can identify all fabrics from online photos, proving that it can be done!

I encourage readers who are scared or turned off by online fabric shopping to be open to this new way of shopping. Yes, mistakes will be made, but your sewing world will expand by leaps and bounds

Until soon!

When we are no longer able to change a situation – we are challenged to change ourselves. Viktor E. Frankl

My husband and I have always been awed by the 7:15 am sun at the beach ~ so soft and scattered by the rooflines of homes as it rises, gently illuminating the water and sand. We thought this time would be perfect for shooting photos of my new dress, but were quickly reminded that best laid plans often go awry…………..

This is my third maxi in the last three months; one in linen, one in a knit and this one in Mood Fabric’s Grenadine Silk Crepe de Chine!

Earlier I ordered and reluctantly used this gorgeous silk for a dress lining. I thought the fabric could be put to better use, but the lovely silk transformed the dress from ordinary to extraordinary.

My love for this richly saturated crepe de chine led me to order three more yards, and alas, I have a dress from this beautiful fabric using  New Look 6372.

Following Linda Lee’s advice from her Sewing with Silks: The Liberty Shirt  Craftsy Course, I pre-washed the silk with mild detergent in the washing machine. I admit the thought of this procedure is unnerving, and I tried out the remains from the lining which I did not pre-wash for the dry clean only dress before following through.

Pre-washing the silk not only ensures for successful spot cleaning, but makes the fabric easier to sew by removing a finish from the fabric that creates a slick surface. The color was unaffected.

One would think an unfitted halter type pattern with a gathered elastic back  and labeled as easy would be a breeze to fit, right?

 I almost cut a size smaller, but in the muslin below notice that it is  actually too small in the bust, too low in the neck, too tight across the front and lacking in coverage!

Fortunately the pattern was an easy fix with a full bust adjustment, shortening the chain and adding one inch from the top of the underarm to the top of the bodice for better coverage.

I’m so pleased with the dress, but not so pleased with the photos. The gentle breezes were replaced by wind,

so we left the beach with its beautiful light only to find glaring sun,

or uninspired scenery without the wind, and light perfect for showing off my farmer’s tan.

I intended the dress to serve as resort wear for which it is perfect……..

…… as long as I’m by a pool and not the ocean!

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Book Update!

I just learned today that Amazon has installed the “Look Inside” button on The Tunic Bible page. If you’d like a closer look at photos and text go here and click on “Look Inside”

Until soon

Summer clothes are sew much fun to sew, I will make them until the end of the season.

While writing The Tunic Bible, I developed a new appreciation, perhaps an obsession for working with trims. Using the ‘right’ trim whether it’s inexpensive twill tape or an ornate applique easily transforms a garment from plain to sensational. Mood Fabrics has it all from lace to ribbons to chains and appliqués!

To transform my latest tunic in Mood Fabrics luscious fuchsia lightweight linen, I selected an this Oscar de la Renta 2″ medallion design cotton lace. It’s fabulous. When clicking on the link be sure and click on the fabric estimator; a nifty chart for estimating trim yardage.

To frame the medallions on the dress, I turned the placket to the outside of the dress to create texture, and then topstitched to outline the shape of the placket. After experimenting with the trim placement, I placed a small strip of steam-a-seam on the back of the lace to secure the placement before stitching the lace to the fabric with a zig-zag stitch. (White thread on the spool and pink in the bobbin. )

I centered the trim directly over the machine stitched hem around the bottom of the dress.

Wearing linen requires a certain state of mind for sure.  One must be willing to embrace the wrinkles and enjoy the beautifully rumpled look at day’s end! I pre-washed the linen with fabric softener twice before cutting, but that is certainly not a rule since the more you wash it the softer it becomes.

Would you believe I bought 8 YARDS of this wonderful lace? Obviously, I did not see the Fabric Estimator, and had enough for two garments!

For a more subdued look, I applied the lace medallions to a striped cotton shirting tunic. Check out Mood’s 400 striped cotton shirting choices here.

Stripes present so many design possibilities! Cutting the placket on the crossgrain created a subtle fabric contrast, and a great backdrop for the lace.

Because this garment is ‘tunic length’ as opposed to dress length, I outlined the side slits with the medallions, punctuating the garment with a hefty dose of this feminine trim!

To Trim or Not To Trim?

….An Easy Decision!

What’s better than a little black dress?…… A little black dress with a big colorful wrap!

This month several members of The Mood Sewing Network are sewing African Waxed Cotton. I enthusiastically agreed to the challenge having never sewn this fabric before, and when my six-yard piece of Spectra Green Waxed Cotton African Print with Gold Metallic Foil arrived from Mood Fabrics I wanted to use every inch of this luscious metallic textile.Big wraps are such luxury accessories! It took me a while to learn how to wear wraps, but now that I know what to do with them I truly value these versatile pieces. When folded in half the wrap is quite manageable and just large enough to warm the shoulders,

but one flick of the wrist, and the beautiful shimmer of this garment is revealed in full.

I chose McCall’s 3880 from my stash (a discontinued pattern but available on Etsy, Ebay and many other sites),and sewed View D with the 360 inch bias cut ruffle.

I sew ruffles quite often, but could not have sewn one this large without my Ruffler attachment which evenly gathered the entire ruffle in less than 10 minutes.

Because view D is a lined variation I was able to sew a reversible wrap by placing right sides together after attaching the ruffle. Waxed prints are very easy to work with. My one cautionary step was using a press cloth when pressing the metallic side up.

Note how the ‘wrong’ side resembles broadcloth (below).

From Wikipedia…….

“The wax prints are part of a nonverbal way of communication among African women, and hereby they carry their message out into the world. Some wax prints can be named after personalities, cities, building, sayings or occasions. The producer, name of the product and registration number of the design is printed on the selvage, protecting the design and allowing reading the quality of the fabric. The wax fabrics constitute capital goods for the African women. Therefore, they are collected depending on the financial possibilities.”

I do not know the message or meaning behind my print but I am happy to pass it along by way of  wearing the symbols and design.

Click here to learn more about the fascinating story of African Waxed Cotton.

So here I am wearing what I originally thought was just another piece of fabric, only to be reminded of a  deeper meaning connecting women around the world. I encourage you to visit Mood Fabrics’ selection featuring many more patterns, and make your own statement with these unique designs!

All the best

This week of sewing has been all play and no work I simply love sewing with no agenda, deadlines, hardcore plans, and all of the other issues that can pile on the pressure.

I have been beyond eager to sew a cold-shoulder top. I see them everywhere, and after one attempt and mediocre result last spring I’m at it again. Fortunately, the pattern companies now offer many more selections, and I had a better vision.

For this top I selected the Style Arc Cold Shoulder Knit Top. I have no affiliation with Style Arc Patterns, but now that I can buy them with Amazon one-click I’ll be sewing more of these great fitting patterns! This pattern is designed for a close fit, which fit almost perfectly without any adjustments. My fabric is a ponte knit from Mood Fabrics and I’m linking to the entire collection of pontes due to Mood’s large selection of these functional fabrics! The stable knit paired nicely with this pattern providing  structure, shape and just enough stretch for a good fit.

What I really like about this pattern design is the higher neckline which keeps the focus on the shoulders.

As with all Style Arc patterns the directions are sparse. I followed Claire Schaeffer’s instructions  for stabilizing a knit hem by serging a 1″ strip of interfacing to the hem and folding before machine stitching the hem. (book: High-Fashion Sewing Secrets from the World’s Best Designers) My all-black fabric, interfacing and thread made for terrible photos – sorry, but I will show on my next project. I hope to make more!

In the pattern illustration, the top is shown at a shorter length, but I preferred a longer length. Being 5’2″ the original pattern length worked well.

Mood’s Black and Beige Geometric Squares Stretch Cotton Woven immediately caught my eye and went straight to the cart!

I think the description of ‘Black and Beige’ is way too tame for this lively print sure to  punctuate any wardrobe with the cheerful pops of pink, orange, red and turquoise! In my opinion, this lightweight cotton with ample stretch is one of those must have fabrics which would make any garment proud!

The pants are sewn from Style Arc’s Willow pattern which I have sewn twice before both times with fabric from Mood.

Mood Fabrics, DVF Brocade, Style Arc Willow

Mood Fabrics, Brocade, Style Arc Willow www.goodbyevalentino.com

The pattern is designed for woven fabrics, and the higher waist with a side zipper is perfect for wearing with pullover tops.  I removed  1 inch from the width of the back legs since I was sewing a fabric with stretch to avoid bagginess and am pleased with the result.

With this pair I omitted the split at the hem because there was too much going on with the pattern, shoes and top

One of my measures of successful sewing is ‘Will I wear it?’ This time the answer is a great big yes, and with this project I feel like I’m headed into Spring regardless of what weather lies ahead.

Best wishes to all for a wonderful week, hopefully a wonderful week of sewing ~ may it be both relaxed and productive!

Until soon

Actually the header should read a contest and two giveaways!

Last month several of the Mood Sewing Network members sewed projects from African Waxed Cotton.

The store liked the results so much it decided to host a Facebook Contest. The winner receives two $50.00 gift certificates. One to keep and one to share with YOU!

Click HERE to vote for your favorite! The contest runs through February 15th, and obviously, I hope I receive the certificate to share with you

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In the meantime Beth Byrge, from 110 Creations and author of A Sewist’s Notebook has written a new book entitled A Sewist’s Swatchbook designed to help us keep track of our fabric stashes.

This handy book provides an opportunity to help us fulfill resolutions of becoming more organized

To quote Beth:

Drapey rayons. Vibrant florals. Super soft cottons. Nothing inspires sewists like a piece of beautiful fabric. The only problem is—there are so many of them! No matter how good your memory is, you have likely found yourself staring at a piece of fabric, with no idea why you have it. A Sewist’s Swatch Book aims to eliminate those head-scratching moments, letting you get on with the business of making. Save a swatch in this book, keeping track of its composition, stretch, and size.

The book is easy to use with every fabric category printed on each page(110 pages). Simply clip a swatch and circle the details. No matter where your fabric is stored, you can have your whole collection right at your fingertips. Quickly reference what you need and give yourself more time for sewing and creating.

I appreciate anyone who can help keep me organized in any area of my life.

Beth has provided a copy of her book for me to giveaway to one lucky winner!  To enter the giveaway simply leave a comment on this post. The winner will be announced on Tuesday, February 14th.

Thank you, Beth,  and Happy Saturday Dear Readers!

Goodness ~ I won the Mood Fabrics African Print Facebook Challenge. Many thanks to all who voted in the contest, not just for me, but for any of the seven MSN bloggers. I’m truly flattered to have won amid such talent.

For winning, I received two $50.00 Mood Fabrics gift certificates. Mood automatically loaded one to my account but the second one is for you!
To enter the giveaway simply leave a comment below. The winner will be announced Monday, February 20th.

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If you plan to visit Quilt Con in Savannah, please stop by one of our Tunic Bible book signings and say hello! We will be in the C&T Publishing Booth #118 on Thursday, February 23 from 1 – 2 PM and the Five Eighth Seams Booth 145 from 1 – 2 PM on Friday, February 24. ! For more information go to http://quiltconeast.com

We will also be promoting our upcoming Tunic Bible Workshop in Charleston. (more here)

We would love to see you!

Good luck with the giveaway and T G I F